Crankcase Internals

After splitting the crankcase, the work continues disassembling the different components inside:

1. First we remove the camshaft and the crankshaft by simply lifting them up (lift the crankshaft by pulling two connecting rods straight up out of the case).
2. We finally remove any lifters that had got stuck earlier. They can be easily slided into the case.
3. Removed the three pairs of camshaft bearings from each case half.
4. Removed the camshaft plug.
5. Removed the main-bearing dowels.
6. Slided the distributor driveshaft out.

Everything is now out, and the two crankcase halves are finally empty. Next step is to disassemble the crankshaft by removing the piston rods. But before doing so, I measured their side clearance. Side clearance should be between 0.004 to 0.016 in (0.10 to 0.40mm), with a 0.027 in (0.70mm) wear limit. The measurements from my engine resulted as follows (all within specifications):

• Connecting Rod #1: 0.30mm
• Connecting Rod #2: 0.33mm
• Connecting Rod #3: 0.20mm
• Connecting Rod #4: 0.20mm

Then, I proceeded with the removal of the connecting rods from the crankshaft. For each rod, removed the two 14mm nuts, and pulled off the cap by tapping tapping with an a thin aluminum bar onto the very small corners that protrude between the two parts of the rod. Also wrote down the serial numbers for each of the rods:

• Connecting Rod #1: 022 411
• Connecting Rod #2: 022 411
• Connecting Rod #3: 021 411A
• Connecting Rod #4: 021 411A

Last but not least, I disassembled the valves. This is something I could have done a long time ago when I removed the cylinder heads from the engine, but never got to it, in part because I didn't have the right tool. There are special tools to do this job, but I hacked one together with the help of the drill press (see pictures below). Removed all valves (one got slightly stuck), and found a valve seat for a valve in the cylinder #3 completely separated from the cylinder head. This cylinder has the most notable signs of bad combustion.

01. Detail of one of the main bearing dowels	02. Removing a bearing dowel	03. Measuring side clearance of connecting rods	04. Crankshaft and side clearances for connecting rods
05. Removing connecting rods	06. Using a PVC pipe as an extension to apply more torque with the 14mm wrench	07. Detail of the crankshaft and connecting rods	08. All connecting rods removed
09. Cylinder heads. Note the scratch on one of the valve spring tops, possibly due to the push rods.	10. Detail of interior of cylinder heads: #3 is visibly faulty	11. Detail of left cylinder head (cylinders 3 (left) and 4 (right))	12. Removing the valves
13. Setup with the drill press to remove the valves	14. Detail of hack to remove valves	15. Valve seat completely out of place on cylinder #3